I’ve been living in Toronto, Canada for 10 years, but part of my heart is still in the Ardèche where I grew up. Especially since I don’t live there anymore, I really enjoy my stays there. I discover with the eyes of a tourist and admire every street corner. Every monument, every piece of history. And as I sincerely believe that this is one of the most beautiful regions of France, I’ve put together a list of 15 must-do activities in the Ardèche.
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Vallon-Pont-d’Arc
We start at the base of the base in Ardèche. Whenever I say that I’m from the Ardèche, I know that people think of Le Pont d’Arc. But I actually come from the southern Ardèche, an hour’s drive to the north. We don’t have Vallon-Pont-d’Arc, but we were French rugby champions in 1970… doesn’t that make you want to visit us? Okay, I digress!
If you’re in the Ardèche, you’ve got to see the Pont d’Arc. It’s really beautiful to look at, and you can go there several times without tiring of it. It’s a geological curiosity that’s unique in the world and at least 124,000 years old. And that’s just the beginning. The passage of the Ardèche river has carved this natural arch in the rock. Nature is incredible. Beware: in high season, this is a very, very, very popular spot, so get there very early if you want to be able to move around and get a good photo. Or, like me, out of season!
There are several ways to enjoy it: sitting on the beach, walking to get as close as possible to the arch, or kayaking underneath it (which is also one of the must-do activities in the Ardèche!).
La Grotte Chauvet
Finally, a reproduction of the Grotte Chauvet. The original, discovered in 1994, is not open to the public for preservation. But you can visit a perfect reproduction. It’s truly impressive, the work that’s gone into it is incredible. The website describes it as humanity’s first masterpiece. I can only confirm that. Allow at least 2-3 hours for the visit if you want to take the time to see everything. You can even eat there (my granddad told me it was good, so I’ll pass on the info!). The surrounding park is beautiful and makes a nice transition between parking in the parking lot and entering the cave. Tours are available in several languages.
Les Belvédères des Gorges de l’Ardèche
We’re staying in the same part of Ardèche for one of the must-do activities I recommend to everyone: a tour of the Belvederes on the banks of the Ardèche. The road was upgraded a few years ago to allow you to stop here by car. The view is incredible: you’re up high, admiring the immensity of the land and the beauty of the landscape. You can drive 24 kilometres between Vallon-Pont-d’Arc and Saint-Martin-d’Ardèche, and I’ll let you read about the 11 lookouts on the Gorges de l’Ardèche tourist route here.
The dolmens of Ardèche
I’m not sure everyone knows that there are dolmens in the Ardèche. I remember seeing them when I was growing up and I find them fascinating. A few years ago, I went back to see them. If you don’t know what a dolmen is, it’s a prehistoric megalithic structure. It’s generally made up of large vertical stones topped by a wide horizontal slab. They are often collective burials dating back to the Neolithic period (between 4000 and 2000 BC). There are over 900 in the Ardèche, mainly in the south of the department. This is due to the limestone soil, which is ideal for construction. You can find several options on the Ardèche website.
Alba-la-Romaine
There are many beautiful villages to discover in the Ardèche. But I wanted to tell you about Alba-la-Romaine, a village with fortifications dating back to the Middle Ages. Having grown up in the Ardèche, I’ve been there several times, at school, with my parents and at the summer camps. It’s its archaeological site and ancient theater that keep the curious coming back for more. If you’re in the area in July, make the most of the Alba Festival.
La Viarhôna
I have so many memories of walking along the Viarhôna. With my family, with my grandmother. The Viarhôna links Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean Sea along the Rhône. For the tourists who use it to get from point A to point B, each stage may not have as much importance, but for the locals, the Viarhôna has been a real positive change and above all a part of their daily lives.
And since in this article I also want to enable you to enjoy the Ardèche like a local, I must recommend a short ride on the Viarhôna. The Viarhôna is often used for long-distance cycling, and I have to say that everything is well laid out to encourage this use. But if you don’t plan to cycle long distances, I recommend that you choose an accessible section in your area by consulting this website to select a small portion of the 166 kilometers of Viarhôna available in the Ardèche. Personally, I’d recommend stage 14 for my area, but that wouldn’t be pure chauvinism. In all objectivity: all parts are beautiful to discover, whether on foot or by bike.
Saint-Vincent-de-Barrès
I don’t know if you’ve come to read all my personal anecdotes, but I can’t tell you about my beautiful Ardèche without telling you more. I went to high school in Privas, a few kilometers away. At 16, you don’t really care about the beauty of villages, so I never really took an interest in Saint-Vincent-de-Barrès, even though several classmates lived there. I went there for balls, without realizing how beautiful and steeped in history the village was. Last summer, my boyfriend and I took the time to walk around the village. The village is in incredible condition, the fortifications have been renovated, and it’s one of the last villages in the Ardèche to have all its fortifications. That’s what made me want to add it to this list of must-do activities in the Ardèche!
Natural reserve of Printegarde
I really want to offer you things that are less often talked about in the Ardèche. Or that you can’t find in all the lists already available online. The Ile de Printegarde wildlife reserve is a site that nature lovers will appreciate. Here I’m taking you closer to where I grew up, as this island is part of my commune.
This area has been a Réserve de Chasse et Faune Sauvage since 1975, and has several other titles for protection. If you like to observe nature, you’ll love the 14 kilometers of free walking trails. The island is located on a migratory route, so depending on the time of year, you may catch a glimpse of birds on the move. Find out more about the island’s biodiversity here and here. Don’t forget your camera if you’re going, and if you’ve got binoculars, put them in the bag!
Hot air balloons at Annonay
If you didn’t know, the hot-air balloon was invented by the Montgolfier brothers in Annonay, in the northern Ardèche region. This incredible invention is the pride of all Ardéchois. And even though I now live 7,000km from the Ardèche, I never miss an opportunity to share this information at every opportunity. I haven’t yet had the pleasure of trying it out, but it’s not for lack of trying – we tried it twice around Toronto without success. But ideally I’d like to try it in the Ardèche, of course.
Most of the must-do activities in the Ardèche on this list are free, so I wanted to offer you a few alternatives. Yes, you can book a hot-air balloon flight, but you can also attend one of the festivals in Annonay. Or you can, as I’ve done several times in the past, sit back and watch the hot-air balloons take off into the distance. I was a field salesman for 3 years, and Annonay was part of my sector. Whenever I saw one taking off, I’d pull over to watch it. Take a minute to admire this 1782 invention still in action. You can read more about the history of hot-air ballooning here.
Le Mont Gerbier de Jonc
This recommendation is sentimental. I spent so many summers growing up at Mont Gerbier de Jonc (often simply called the Gerber de Jonc). I went back a few months ago with my grandfather and my Canadian boyfriend. It’s beautiful, soothing and steeped in history.
What is the Gerbier de Jonc? It’s an ancient volcano dating back 7 million years. I’m trying to explain it as clearly as possible, because I found a lot of scientific information that wasn’t very accessible. The lava was very thick at the time, and cooled before it had time to flow. Hence its distinctive shape. You can climb to the very top to observe the mountains around you from an altitude of 1551m. Mind you, although the path is well-maintained and much better than when I was a child, it’s still difficult and I wouldn’t venture up it with people who have difficulty getting around. But you don’t have to go all the way to the top to appreciate its beauty.
At the foot of Mont Gerbier de Jonc, you’ll find little huts selling local produce (I always bring back honey!) and a restaurant. But above all, you have the source of the Loire. If I may make one last little recommendation, go and eat at the Auberge de Bachasson, just a few minutes’ drive away. You won’t be disappointed!
The Ray-Pic waterfall
If you’re already in the area, I have another recommendation. The Ray-Pic waterfall is located on the Ardèche plateau, in the Monts d’Ardèche Regional Nature Park, and offers an impressive natural spectacle. You can observe it from the roadside lookout or join the path below. During your walk, you’ll be able to observe the waterfall from different vantage points. A truly interesting archaeological site, there are in fact two waterfalls, one hiding the other, where water flows 60 meters high, created by a lava flow. It’s a rather short hike (30 mins), but one that’s sure to take your breath away.
Castle of Crussol
A classic if you’re in the southern Ardèche: a visit to the Château de Crussol. Or at least what’s left of it. More like the ruins of Château de Crussol. I try to go there every time I’m in the area, and every time I see the efforts being made to keep it in good condition.
I had the opportunity a few years ago to take part in a guided tour offered by the Château de Crussol tourist office, and I can’t recommend it highly enough. You’ll learn so much about the history, location, role of the Rhône and so on. Be warned, the path to the top is not the most accessible, and can be a bit slippery depending on the time of year you go. If you don’t feel like going any higher, you can watch the Rhône valley and the Vercors opposite, sitting on the terrace steps. In fact, they hold several events there. I even saw an open-air film there one year, with the mountains in the background, so it’s not a bad experience.
France’s most beautiful villages
The Ardèche has some of the most beautiful villages in France. You can stroll through them, observing the life of the locals, following the gaze of a strolling cat. Play hide-and-seek with the sun in the winding streets. Imagine how life used to be. Thinking about what these stones have seen and heard over the centuries. I’ve come up with a more complete list of 18 villages in the Ardèche that are well worth a visit. I’d recommend Beauchastel above all else, because I grew up next door to it and the view from the Théâtre de Verdure offers incredible vistas of the Eyrieux, Rhône and Vercors valleys. But honestly, you can’t go wrong visiting the small villages of the Ardèche.
A little extra advice: take a good look at the calendar of events for the villages you’re interested in, as many have activities in summer. For example, tours in period costume, reproductions, markets. It’s worth keeping this in mind.
Castle of Tournon
I’ve been lucky enough to visit Tournon castle several times, and I highly recommend it. It’s one of the best-preserved castles in the Ardèche. I love the view from the terraces over the rooftops of the town, the Rhône and the vineyards opposite. The château served as a prison before being transformed into a museum in the early 20th century, and has been listed as a Monument Historique since 1938. You’ll learn a great deal about the region’s history during your visit to the permanent and temporary exhibitions. Tournon sur Rhône is a really nice town, after which I’d recommend taking a stroll through the little streets around it. And if you have the time, I’d recommend eating a few steps from the château, at the Péniche sur le Rhône. It’s pretty, it’s delicious, it’s local. We love it.
Le Mastrou
We end this list of must-do activities in the Ardèche with a rather unusual one. Ready to step back in time? Embark on a steam train and discover the Ardèche from a unique perspective? That’s what Le Mastrou has to offer. Board at the station near Tournon sur Rhône for an hour-and-a-half ride through the curves of the Ardèche to discover breathtaking scenery. An activity that will delight young and old alike. At the end of the ride, the locomotive is turned by two people to go back the other way. It’s certainly not something you see every day, and it’s something everyone will remember!
I hope this list of must-do activities in the Ardèche will help you make the most of your stay. The Ardèche is a magnificent department with many and varied activities. Whether you already know the region or not, there’s always something to discover. Feel free to share your recommendations in comments and tag me on Instagram if you visit these places.
Enjoy your visit to my beautiful Ardèche,
